IS AMMONIA-FREE BLEACH BETTER FOR YOUR HAIR?
Although we assume ammonia free haircolor is gentle, ammonia free color may be just as damaging as color with ammonia. All haircolor contains an alkalizing agent. Traditional color uses ammonia. Most modern color now uses one of the non ammonia substitutes, monoethanolamine (MEA) or aminomethylpropanol (AMP).
In order for us to smell something, the molecule must evaporate and enter our nose. MEA and AMP are much larger molecules than ammonia, so they aren’t as volatile. That means that they stay in the color and we don’t notice the smell as much.
MEA and AMP may not smell as harsh, but they function in exactly the same way that ammonia does. All oxidative haircolor is alkaline, it doesn’t matter if the alkalizing agent is MEA, AMP or ammonia. What matters is the final pH of the haircolor. Never assume that something is safe, just because it doesn’t have a caustic smell. Carbon monoxide and natural gas are natural, organic and odorless, but they are also deadly poisons.
Hair lighteners damage hair more and the lighter you make it, the more you damage it. Deposit only haircolor has a lower pH and uses a lower volume of peroxide than permanent or high lift haircolor, so it’s less damaging, regardless of the alkalizing agent. Semi permanent, deposit only haircolor with 10 volume peroxide does little damage to the hair. Permanent color with 40 volume peroxide lightens the hair, but does much more damage
Hair lighteners must have an alkaline pH to penetrate into the cortex of the hair. The alkalinity also triggers the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide, which lightens the hair. All Hi Lift permanent haircolor has an alkaline pH with a high concentration of hydrogen peroxide.
Powder lighteners (bleach) contain persulfate salts that are only used in powdered lighteners. because they must be packaged in a powdered form. Persulfate salts dramatically increase lightening ability, but also increase damage to the hair and scalp irritation.
Although we assume ammonia free haircolor is gentle, ammonia free color may be just as damaging as color with ammonia. All haircolor contains an alkalizing agent. Traditional color uses ammonia. Most modern color now uses one of the non ammonia substitutes, monoethanolamine (MEA) or aminomethylpropanol (AMP).
In order for us to smell something, the molecule must evaporate and enter our nose. MEA and AMP are much larger molecules than ammonia, so they aren’t as volatile. That means that they stay in the color and we don’t notice the smell as much.
MEA and AMP may not smell as harsh, but they function in exactly the same way that ammonia does. All oxidative haircolor is alkaline, it doesn’t matter if the alkalizing agent is MEA, AMP or ammonia. What matters is the final pH of the haircolor. Never assume that something is safe, just because it doesn’t have a caustic smell. Carbon monoxide and natural gas are natural, organic and odorless, but they are also deadly poisons.
Hair lighteners damage hair more and the lighter you make it, the more you damage it. Deposit only haircolor has a lower pH and uses a lower volume of peroxide than permanent or high lift haircolor, so it’s less damaging, regardless of the alkalizing agent. Semi permanent, deposit only haircolor with 10 volume peroxide does little damage to the hair. Permanent color with 40 volume peroxide lightens the hair, but does much more damage
Hair lighteners must have an alkaline pH to penetrate into the cortex of the hair. The alkalinity also triggers the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide, which lightens the hair. All Hi Lift permanent haircolor has an alkaline pH with a high concentration of hydrogen peroxide.
Powder lighteners (bleach) contain persulfate salts that are only used in powdered lighteners. because they must be packaged in a powdered form. Persulfate salts dramatically increase lightening ability, but also increase damage to the hair and scalp irritation.